Routes Steeped in History

Before turnpike roads and railways, the movement of livestock was the lifeblood of rural Britain. Drovers herded cattle, sheep and geese along ancient tracks from the hills of Wales, Scotland and northern England to markets in the lowlands. These routes were not built by engineers but worn into the landscape by countless hooves, following the easiest gradients, the firmest ground and the most reliable fords. Today, many of these old drovers' roads survive as public rights of way, often leading across open moorland where the only sounds are skylarks, curlews and the wind.

Walking them is a different experience from following a waymarked national trail. You will meet few people, sometimes none at all. The paths can be faint, the gates old and the bridges stone-built centuries ago. But that is precisely the appeal: quiet miles, wide views and a tangible connection to a slower, tougher way of life.

Before You Set Out

Drovers' roads are often remote, exposed and poorly signposted. Preparation is not optional. Check a mountain weather forecast before leaving, as conditions can change within an hour. Even in summer, hill fog and sudden rain are common. Wear sturdy waterproof boots with good ankle support, and carry waterproof jackets and trousers. A warm layer, hat and gloves are wise even on a warm day.

Pack a large-scale map (1:25,000 or 1:50,000) and a compass, plus a charged mobile phone or handheld GPS as a backup. Tell someone your intended route and expected return time. Take more water and food than you think you need, as there are rarely shops or cafés en route. A head torch is useful if your walk takes longer than planned.

Finding Your Way

On open moorland, drovers' roads may appear as grassy tracks, faint holloways or lines of worn stones. Waymarkers are sporadic. You will need to navigate by map, compass and landscape features such as ridges, streams, walls and cairns. In poor visibility, follow a bearing rather than guessing.

• Look for old bridges: many drovers' routes cross streams at packhorse bridges, often narrow with low parapets.
• Follow the walls: dry stone walls frequently run alongside or across these routes, but always use stiles and gates.
• Watch for cairns: piles of stones often mark a summit or a change of direction.
• Use gates, not fences: never climb over walls or fences unless there is a clear stile or gate.

Respecting the Landscape

These hills are working landscapes. You will likely encounter sheep, cattle, ponies and sometimes bulls. Give all livestock plenty of space, especially cows with calves. Keep dogs on a short lead around sheep and cattle, and under close control at all times. During lambing and nesting seasons, stick to paths and keep noise to a minimum.

Leave gates as you find them: open if they were open, closed if they were closed. Do not disturb ruins, cairns or old sheepfolds. Take all litter home, including fruit peel and dog waste. Wild camping is not permitted everywhere, so check local bylaws if you plan to bivvy.

What You'll See Along the Way

The rewards are subtle but rich. Wide skies, calling curlews, the scent of heather and cotton grass. You might pass standing stones, old drovers' inns (now private homes), and boundary markers carved with initials. The views stretch for miles, often with no roads or buildings in sight.

Old bridges are a particular joy: sturdy stone arches built to carry packhorses and cattle, often with a ford beside them. Some have deep ruts worn by hooves. Pause on them, listen to the water, and imagine the noise and dust of a drove passing through.

Where and When to Walk

Good areas for quiet drovers' road walking include the Cambrian Mountains of mid-Wales, the northern Pennines, the Yorkshire Dales, the Cheviots and the Scottish Highlands. Many routes are best in late spring, summer and early autumn. Winter walking is possible but demands experience, ice axe and crampons on high ground.

Start with shorter sections of three to five miles, then build up. A linear route can be linked with a bus or a second car. The best times are weekdays outside school holidays, when you may have the entire valley to yourself. Go quietly, tread lightly, and these ancient ways will reward you with solitude and a deep sense of history.